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HYDRO E-Brake

Instructions for Dual Caliper Bracket (DCB)

Equipment needed:

 

Jack, jackstands, 1/2” ratchet, socket to remove your wheels. 3/8” ratchet with 14 and 17mm deep sockets. 14mm and 1/4"wrenches. 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2” flare nut wrenches. Small adjustable crescent wrench. 4” angle grinder with Cut-off disc, 80 grit flapper disc (or sandpaper). Hammer, and long drift. Brake bleeding setup (clear hose with a clear bottle).

You will also need 1L of good quality DOT 4 brake fluid.

 

Plumbing the System
 

This section is how to measure/route and secure the plumbing for the REIN DCB

  1. Jack up car and support as high as you can with jack stands. *** MAKE SURE THE CAR IS SECURE ***

  2. Remove rear wheels

  3. Take your pre-assembled -3 to 3/8-24 brake adapters and brackets and bolt them to the subframe according to the photos, use the existing hole near the toe arm pivot.

  4. Take the 3/8-24 Brake Tee and mount it somewhere near the center of the car above the subframe, keeping in mind the routing of the hard lines. Refer to the photos for examples on a GS/Aristo/S161. An IS/Altezza/MarkII/Verossa/Crown /E10/X110/S171 should be similar. Try to find an existing stud or threaded hole to bolt it into.

  5. Measure the required length of hard lines considering any bends or loops you may need to incorporate (alternatively measure straight and add 12” for bends). We recommend hard lines over Braided SS lines as they are stronger, require less maintenance and offer a more consistent feel. This is how OEM does it because it works, if you choose to plumb your whole system with braided lines we cannot guarantee the feel will be the same as how we engineered it. REMEMBER you can always add some extra bends to take up excess length, it is much harder and more prone to leaks to add additional line/connections. You will need three lengths: 1-From your Hydro to the Brake Tee. (we usually add another flex line from the hydro to the hard line to make it more serviceable) 2/3-from the brake tee to each adapter by the wheels.

  6. Once you have your 3 lengths, either go to your local auto parts supplier and purchase those lengths of premade bendable 3/16” (3/8-24 inverted flare) hard line or cut and flare the lines yourself.

  7. Run all the lines from your hydro handle to the tee, then to each adapter by the wheel noting how the factory brake lines are run. Follow the routing if possible and affix the new hard lines solidly using p-clips or zip ties. Be careful not to kink the lines when bending them.  **Ensure no movement and keep all the lines away from exhaust, moving parts or low hanging areas that could drag. ** Tighten all the flare fittings using a proper flare nut wrench. (3/8”, 7/16”, and 1/2")

  8. Attach the 16” SS braided lines to the adapters and run them along toe arm out to the knuckle. Tighten the body side using proper flare nut wrenches.  Tighten to 70-100in/lbs or 1/4 turn past hand tight. DO NOT overtighten!

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Mount bracket to
existing hole if possible

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Brake tee mounted to existing stud

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 Secure brake line to toe arm 

Installing the REIN DCB

 This section shows you the steps on the bracket and caliper installation.

  1. Release the parking brake

  2. Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the OEM stock calipers in place, remove calipers and hang from springs with coat hanger or equivalent to relieve tension on brake line.

  3. Remove brake rotors, shoes and associated hardware. (refer to OEM manual or video on how to remove brake handbrake shoes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnpp6eJxHMM)

  4. Refer to the photos to draw the line on the dust shield. Cut the dust shield according to the photos. Use a cut-off disc and or air saw, grind, file or sand the edges smooth to avoid sharp edges.

  5. Move to the backside of the knuckle and remove the 14mm nuts from the studs holding the parking brake assembly to the hub.

  6. Take a long drift and a large hammer and punch out the two studs. (the long drift is to allow you enough space to get a good swing on the hammer)

  7. Mock-up the REIN DCB’s on the OEM knuckle. Note the area where the brackets contact the shoulders of the knuckle. Refer to the photos and file or grind the casting line off the upper shoulders of the OEM knuckle. Make sure the REIN DCB sits flat against the shoulder.

  8. Decide if you are retaining the OEM parking brake or deleting it. If retaining it continue to step 10, if deleting it skip ahead to step 18

  9. If RETAINING the OEM parking brake use the M10x1.25x 50mm bolts and put them through the REIN DCB’s then through the knuckle. Put the M10x1.25 nuts on the hub side and snug with by hand.

  10. Insert the M12x1.25x35 bolts through the DCB into OEM brake caliper holes on the knuckle to align them.

  11. Mock-up the Wilwood caliper onto the DCB using the M10x1.25x40 and flanged M10 nuts. Note the Right and Left position, the -3 male nipples should face forward. Make sure all the holes line up and the bolts slide through easily. If they do, hand tighten the M10 flanged nuts onto the Wilwood caliper bolts. If not refer to step 7

  12. If you’re satisfied with the fitment then tighten the 50mm bolts holding the DCB to the knuckle and torque to 40lb/ft. Verify that both the OEM and Wilwood caliper mounting bolts can still be inserted easily. Remove the M12 OEM caliper bolts, the Wilwood caliper, and hardware.

  13. Refer to the video to reinstall all the OEM parking brake items including the rotors. Thread a lug nut on to hold the rotor tight against the hub.

  14. Reinstall OEM calipers and torque to spec.

  15. Install Wilwood caliper using the M10x1.25x40 bolts and flanged M10 nuts. Use an open 14mm wrench to hold the nut while you thread the bolt through, tighten by hand and proceed to step 21

  16. If DELETING the OEM parking brake unbolt the parking brake backing plate, cable holder and cut the backing plate in order to remove it entirely.

  17. Install the REIN DCB’s onto the knuckle using the M10x1.25x40mm bolts and M10 flange nuts. Slide the M12x1.25x35mm bolt for the OEM caliper through the DCB into the knuckle to help align the brackets. Mockup the Wilwood caliper onto the DCB using the M10x1.25x40 and flanged M10 nuts hand tighten. Verify that everything lines up and bolts can be slid through easily. If not refer back to step 7.

  18. If you’re satisfied with the fitment then tighten the 40mm bolts holding the DCB to the knuckle and torque to 40lb/ft. Verify that both the OEM and Wilwood caliper mounting bolts can still be inserted easily. Remove the M12 OEM caliper bolts, the Wilwood caliper and hardware.

  19. Install the rotors then reinstall the Wilwood calipers onto the DCB. Note the Right and Left position, the -3 male nipples should face forward.. Make sure all of the holes line up and the bolts slide through easily. Hand tighten the M10 flanged nuts onto the Wilwood caliper bolts.

  20. Thread the -3AN braided SS line onto the Wilwood caliper and tighten using proper 3/8”, 7/16”, and 1/2” flare nut wrenches. Tighten to 70-100in/lbs or 1/4 turn past hand tight. DO NOT overtighten! Secure the line to the toe arm with Zip ties.

  21. Fill your system with fluid and pump the hydro handle. Check for leaks, remedy as required. In no leaks proceed to bleeding.

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Start your line directly
vertical of the backing plate

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Cut backing plate with cutoff disc or air saw

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Draw your cut line
as per the photo

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These are the studs that
you will be replacing

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 Grind or file this area flush with the knuckle, test fitment to ensure
bracket  sits flat against knuckle

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Brackets and caliper should sit flat against knuckle when finished.

Bleeding the system

This section shows you how to properly bleed your new REIN DCB KIT for maximum performance.

You will need a friend to help you bleed as the calipers need to be bled in an angled position with the bleeders (opposite of the inlet) facing upwards.

  1. Remove the caliper from the DCB and slide it on to the rotor with the nipples facing upwards. Take care not to kink the flex line.

  2. Open the inner bleeder nipple and attach the bleeder kit hose. Have your friend pull the handle a few times until the fluid has no bubbles. Repeat for the outer nipple.

  3. Repeat procedure for the opposite side.

  4. Note the feel of the handle it should be quite hard and have less than 5” of travel.

  5. Return to the first nipple you bled and have your friend slowly pull the handle 4 times and hold on the last pull. Crack the nipple open to let fluid out then close it before the handle reaches the stop. Repeat 3 times.

  6. Repeat this procedure for all of the nipples.

  7. Note the feel of the handle now, it should be noticeably different than the first time. Generally a 16” handle should have less than 100mm/4” of travel to lock the brakes. If not repeat from step 6.

  8. Reinstall the wilwood calipers onto the DCB and tighten the bolts to 40lb/ft.

  9. Verify that nothing is rubbing or contacting the rotors, if so recheck your work.

  10. ENJOY!

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