Thank you for purchasing the RIGID polyurethane engine mounts.
We will outline the installation loosely here as there are many ways to change engine mounts. The RIGID engine mounts come pre-assembled and are a two piece design with replaceable polyurethane inserts. DO NOT disassemble the mounts for installation.
OUT OF CAR INSTALLATION:
If your engine is out of the car the replacement will be much easier. Depending on your setup, the most difficult part of this installation is simply accessing the nut itself.
Tools needed: 17mm wrench
Simply unbolt the OEM 17mm bolt on the top of the engine mount from the aluminum bracket attached to the engine and the mount will be free. to install your RIGID mounts line up the locator tab, install the original 17mm nut and tighten to 90lb/ft.
IN CAR INSTALLALLATION:
The basic explanation of the install is you will need to lift and support the engine approx 2" while simultaneously dropping the crossmember the same amount to allow the stock mounts to be removed and the RIGID ones to be installed. This means anything preventing those things from happening will need to be addressed: Intercooler piping, exhaust, steering shaft, wiring, hoses and lines, suspension components etc will need to be managed in order to efficiently install these mounts.
TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION:
You will need a basic tool set with some additional specialized tools to accomplish this installation successfully
-jack /stands/hoist to support the vehicle.
-method to support the engine
-oil filter wrench
1-Jack up and secure the car. You will need as much room as possible underneath as there are many hard to get to fasteners with little to no room to access them.
2-Loosen, remove or manage anything that would get damaged when lifting the engine (Intake piping/hoses, wiring, exhaust, etc.)
3-Remove the lower engine mount bolts securing the engine to the crossmember.
4-Raise the engine as high as you can and secure it.
5-Mark the location of the steering shaft to the U-Joint, then remove the 12mm through bolt on the steering junction to the rack. use a prybar and hammer to slide the steering shaft off the rack itself. Take care not to damage the U-joint!
6-Remove the 17mm nuts holding the crossmember to the chassis. See how much downward play you have to work with. You will need approx 1-2" to replace the engine mounts. If you do not have that you will need to loosen/remove anything preventing your crossmember from dropping. It is easier to do this now vs later as forcing the mounts out can damage other items that could have been removed in the first place. (clips/lines/wiring/etc)
7-If you have access to the 17mm top nuts of the OEM mounts then remove those now and simply refer to the "OUT OF CAR INSTALLATION" and finish your install.
8-If you do NOT have access to the top 17mm bolts then we recommend removing the aluminum brackets from the engine itself. This is generally quite difficult, especially with stock turbos, as there are multiple items in the way. The best way to get the bolts out is through ingenuity with flex joints/sockets and extensions.
9-Once you've removed the brackets with the mounts still attached, bring them over to your workbench and replace the OEM ones with the shiny new SERIALNINE RIGID ones.
10-Install in reverse order of removal taking care not to scratch up your new mounts.
11-DO NOT forget the steering shaft bolt!
12-Button everything up and enjoy all of the newfound control you have over the power delivery!
If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org